Among the many qualities that the ubiquitous onion brings to the world’s culinary melting pot, the one thing it cannot be said to lend is subtlety. Like a brash, A-type politician, this pungent lily boldly announces itself and, if not carefully managed, will all too readily take over the whole show.
But just as the most colorful of families inevitably has a retiring, downtrodden aunt or cousin, there is one cousin in the onion family that does not push its way to center stage: the leek. It is so retiring and subtle, in fact, that it’s unfortunately as neglected by many cooks as its bolder cousins are overused.
On the surface, leeks don’t seem any less subtle than any other onion. Looking a lot like a scallion on steroids, they give every promise of something much bolder than they deliver, and are even a little bit intimidating for novice cooks. When delicacy and subtlety are wanted, however, the gentle leek delivers in a way that onions never can.
Bright and sometimes a bit peppery when raw, leeks become meltingly sweet when cooked, closer in flavor to young, tender cabbages than to onions. And this time of year, when new leeks are seasonal, they’re more freshly-fragrant and brightly-flavored than at any other time, making them the perfect compliment for the other classic flavors of spring—lamb, young chickens, asparagus, new potatoes, spinach and other bright, new greens, and even broccoli. They are also delicious when they’re on their own, roasted, sautéed, and in their starring role in that wonderful old homey classic, leek and potato soup and its sophisticated cold incarnation, vichyssoise.
Some cooks are put off by the leek’s tendency to hold large amounts of sand and soil between its many layers, and are a little intimidated about preparing it for the pot. Actually, it’s a simple operation. Just strip away the tougher, dark green outer leaves, trim the root end, and split them lengthwise. Then, holding each leek half root-end up, wash them under cold running water, peeling back the layers to be sure that you get all the grit and soil that is inevitably stuck between them.
Presently there’s a popular way for cleaning leeks that I can’t recommend: the leeks are trimmed and sliced without washing them. Then they’re soaked in a basin of water until the grit and soil sinks to the bottom. Unfortunately, soil and grit are not all that get lost to the soaking water. This method inevitably compromises the flavor. Take the little bit of extra time involved in just washing the thing whole before cutting it up.
Shepherd’s Pie
Though hearty and filling, this wonderful old standby always whispers of spring for me, even when I make it in the dead of winter, because it’s inevitably how the Easter Lamb is finished off in my kitchen. Leeks add delicacy and freshness to this sturdy standby.
Though I’m sharing this recipe a bit too late for your Easter leftovers, it’s so good you will want to put on another lamb roast just so you can make this.
Serves 4
2 pounds russet potatoes
1 medium leek
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, trimmed, split lengthwise, peeled, and chopped small
3 large or 4 medium carrots
1 cup fresh or thawed frozen green peas
2 cups leftover roast lamb, diced small
3 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 cup leftover lamb gravy and 2 cups broth or 3 cups broth
Worcestershire sauce
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
About ½ cup heavy cream, heated
1. Scrub the potatoes under cold running water. Put them in a pot and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to a steady slow boil, and cook until tender and easily pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes. Drain, cover, and let sit until they are just cooled enough to handle.
2. Meanwhile, trim, and split lengthwise, and clean the leek as directed above. Drain and thinly it slice crosswise, both the white part and tender pale greens.
3. Warm the butter and onion in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Sauté, tossing often, until translucent, about 4-5 minutes. Add the carrot and sauté about 4 minutes longer, or until the onion begins to color. Add the peas and toss until bright green. Stir in the lamb and flour. Slowly add the gravy and broth, stirring constantly, and bring it to a simmer. Reduce the heat to a simmer, season liberally with Worcestershire, salt, and pepper, and let it simmer until thick, about 5 to 8 minutes. Turn off the heat.
4. Position a rack in the oven and preheat to 375° F. When the potatoes slightly cooled, peel them and put them through a ricer back into the pot. With a potato masher, gradually work in enough hot cream to make fairly stiff but still spreadable mashed potatoes. Season with salt and mix well.
5. Spread the lamb filling over the bottom of a 12-inch gratin dish, or 9-inch square or 8 x 12 rectangular casserole. Dollop the mashed potatoes over the top and smooth them with a fork. Bake until the potatoes are golden brown and the filling is hot and bubbly, about 45 minutes.