In Season: Asparagus and New Potatoes

Two of spring’s great harbingers are now arriving in our markets: bright, new-green spears of fresh asparagus—its very fragrance the essence of spring—and waxy, delicately nutty new potatoes.

Some people love that reedy, pencil-thin asparagus, and they are welcome to all of it. My preference is for the variety that is meaty and thick, with tight, fat heads blushed with purple. Look for tight, plump heads, and fat, taut stems. The cut end should look fresh and clear: pass over any with dry, feathery tips, withered looking stems, and cut bottoms that are a cracked, dry, crusty white.

There are so many lovely varieties of new potato to choose from that there can be no picking favorites there. Red-skinned new potatoes are the most common, and they’re delicious, but delicate whites and buttery golds with their pale, nut-colored skins also have their charms. Regardless of color, look for firm, taut tubers, with clear, translucent skins so thin and pale that they almost seem luminous.

To be at their best, asparagus and new potatoes should not be refrigerated if it can be at all helped, so you should cook them as soon as possible. To keep them until they’re cooked, cut half an inch from the bottoms of asparagus and stand them in water at room temperature for up to 24 hours. Keep new potatoes away from light and heat.

When preparing them for the pot, peeling new potatoes is unnecessary and seems almost sacrilegious, but do peel the tough, woody parts of asparagus. It’s quickly and easily done when you use a good sharp Y-shaped peeler, and why waste as much as a third of this lovely vegetable by snapping off the tough part off to just throw away?

For the best flavor, cook both vegetables quickly—no longer than it takes to make them tender—and season them simply. They won’t need much to bring out their best.

Steaming is the simplest way to cook new potatoes, and there are a wide variety of steaming baskets and inserts to choose from. Tall, slender Asparagus pots are great for cooking whole asparagus, and they can be put to many other uses in the kitchen, but you can also cook it beautifully in a wide, lidded skillet, sauté pan, or even a fish poacher.

Sautéed Asparagus and New Potatoes with Leeks

While asparagus and new potatoes each have distinct charms on their own, they really shine when they’re paired on the plate. And when they’re tossed together in the same pan—why, the results can become downright magical.

Serves 4

¾ pound small red or gold new potatoes, washed but not peeled

1½ pounds fresh asparagus

The tender greens of 2 large leeks, washed, trimmed, and sliced ¼-inch thick

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill

Whole nutmeg in a grater

1. Steam the potatoes in a pot fitted with a steamer basket set over at least 1 inch of boiling water until barely tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Cool and cut into halves (for very small) or quarters (for larger ones).

2. Meanwhile, trim and peel the tough stems of the asparagus and cut it on the diagonal into 1½-inch lengths, separating the tips from the stems.

3. Melt the butter in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add the asparagus stems and potatoes and raise the heat to medium high. Toss to coat and sauté, tossing often, until the potatoes are beginning to color, about 3 minutes.

3. Add the leek greens and asparagus tips, toss, and season liberally with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Sauté, tossing frequently, until the asparagus is tender and beginning to brown at its edges. The asparagus and leek greens should be tender but still a nice vibrant green. Taste and correct the salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and serve immediately