It doesn’t take a nuclear physicist’s mind to figure out why outdoor grilling appeals to us in the summer. It keeps the house cool and smoke-free, and lends the appetite stimulating aroma and subtle flavor of smoke.
There are nights, however, when grilling loses its cachet—when a rainstorm blows in, or when the air is so hot and humid that standing outdoors over an open fire is more unbearable than standing in front of a hot pan in an air-conditioned kitchen. Besides, if you live in an area where grilling isn’t permitted, it it’s not an option anyway.
In those circumstances, one of the most satisfying ways to “grill” is right on top of the stove with a ribbed-bottom grill pan. When properly used, these pans do a beautiful job, creating handsome grill marks, a beautiful caramelized exterior, and lean, juicy meat without extra fat, all without generating a lot of heat or smoking up the house.
There’s a certain amount of technique to pan-grilling, but the first and most important key to success is a heavy-bottomed grill pan that evenly distributes and holds the heat. Just as there are many kinds of outdoor grills, not all grill pans are the same.
There are three basic types: regular cast iron, enameled iron, and nonstick aluminum and stainless steel.
The advantage to cast iron is that it is a poor conductor of heat, so it heats slowly but holds the heat effectively and evenly throughout its surface. Cast iron is porous and the cooking surface must be seasoned before use—that is, conditioned by glazing it with fat. Today many manufacturers, including American-based Lodge, pre-season their cookware in the factory. Once properly seasoned, cast iron develops a naturally non-stick surface that actually improves with use.
To maintain a cast iron grill pan, never let it soak in water or use detergent on it. If food residue does stick to it, use a plastic scrubber or sprinkling of salt to rub it out. If necessary, you can give the pan a light wash in hot, mildly-soapy water. Rinse thoroughly under hot water, dry well, and then warm it briefly over medium heat to make sure that it dries quickly and completely. As added insurance, rub the inside with a paper towel moistened with olive or vegetable oil.
Enameled iron (such Le Creuset’s grille/panini pan) does not need to be (and in fact, cannot be) seasoned like a regular iron pan. Though the interior is black, it’s not exposed iron, but non-porous enamel, so glazing it with fat is not possible and trying to do so will, in fact, damage the surface.
Enameled iron is easier to take care of than regular cast iron because there is no worry about rust, so if cooking residue sticks to the pan, just fill it with hot water and let it soak for an hour or as long as overnight. The pan should easily come clean with a plastic brush or scrubber and hot, mildly-soapy water. Don’t be overly vigorous in scrubbing it. While the pan doesn’t season like regular iron, its surface should be allowed to gradually develop a blackened patina that will help keep food from sticking to it.
Nonstick grill pans are a whole ‘nuther critter, made either entirely of aluminum or of aluminum clad on the outside with stainless steel. The only nonstick grill pans worth considering are those with a finish that is hard anodized (such as All-Clad) or fused to the pan like enamel (such as Scanpan and Swiss Diamond). Painted-on coatings like Teflon and Silverstone just don’t hold up.
The advantage of a nonstick pan is of course the ease of cleanup, but the disadvantage is that they ironically require more care than regular cast and enameled iron. Nonstick pans can be permanently damaged by overheating, especially when empty, so never use more than medium heat and never walk away from it while it is over that heat. Fortunately, they’re made of a highly conductive material, and therefore heat up more quickly than iron. Even nonstick pans need a little lubrication, but never use a cooking spray on them. Even after washing, the spray leaves a residue that will eventually damage and compromise the nonstick finish.
Once you are armed with the grill pan of choice, here are some tips for getting the most from it regardless of which kind you’ve chosen.
· Preheat the pan over medium heat to keep it from overheating. When the food is added, it will cool the pan slightly, so if necessary you can raise the heat to medium high. Turn it back to medium once the pan recovers.
· Brush the food with the fat. This keeps the fat where you need it—at the point of contact between the food and the grill rib—not down in the well between the ribs where it is no help at all. Especially if the pan is new, it also helps to lightly brush the ribs with oil just before you put in the food. The best tool for this is actually a silicone basting brush, because it doesn’t pick up excess oil and can withstand the heat of the pan.
· Let the food fully caramelize before trying to move or turn it. It may stick to the grill ribs at first, but once full caramelization develops, it will actually start to release from the pan.
· Cook by temperature, not by the clock. Use a reliable instant-read meat thermometer to judge doneness.
· Regardless of how you’ve cooked the steak, after you take it from the heat, let it rest for 5 minutes before serving, to allow it to recompose and redistribute its juices.
Pan-Grilled Steak
The times given here are guidelines, not etched in stone. They’re also for boneless steaks. Bone-in steaks such as T-bone and porterhouse will take a good bit longer.
Serves 2
2 1¼-to-2-inch thick rib, filet or strip steaks
Melted unsalted butter or olive oil
Sea or kosher salt and whole black pepper in a mill
1. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Preheat a grill pan over medium heat (at least 5 minutes for iron, about 1½ minutes for nonstick).
2. Pat the steaks dry and brush one side well with fat and season with salt and pepper. Lightly brush the pan ribs with fat and put in the steaks seasoned side down. Cook 2 minutes, or until distinct grill marks form and the meat is releasing from the pan. For cross-hatch marks, give them a quarter turn and grill 2 minutes longer. Otherwise leave them untouched for about 4 minutes for thinner steaks, a minute longer for thicker ones.
3. Brush the tops with more butter or oil, season with salt and pepper, turn, and cook to 145° F. at the center for medium rare, about 3-4 minutes longer for thinner steaks, 4-6 for thicker ones, giving the steaks another quarter turn after 2 minutes if you like for cross-hatch marks on both sides of the steak. For medium, cook to 160° F. at the center, about 6-8 minutes longer, depending on thickness.
4. Remove the steaks to a plate and let them sit for 5 minutes before serving.
Pan-Broiled Steak
If you don’t have a grill pan, pan-broiling in a cast iron skillet does an equally good job with steaks, and indeed, some professional cooks actually prefer it.
Serves 2
2 1¼-to-2-inch thick rib, filet or strip steaks
2 pats unsalted butter or about 1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea or kosher salt and whole black pepper in a mill
1. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Preheat a cast iron skillet over medium heat for at least 5 minutes.
2. Season one side of the steaks with salt and pepper. Put the butter in the pan; it should start to caramelize almost instantly. Immediately add the steaks seasoned side down. Cook 4 minutes for medium rare, 5 for medium to medium well.
3. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, turn and cook to 145° F. at the center for medium rare, about 3-4 minutes longer, or to 160° F. at the center, about 6 minutes longer.
4. Remove the steaks to a plate and let them sit for 5 minutes before serving.