One of the great compensations for living in a climate where the outdoors becomes a sauna from mid-May until late September is the small brown creek shrimp that teem in the ocean just off our shores and in the tidal creeks that lace through our marshes, defining the network of barrier islands between Savannah and Tybee.

The season for this delicacy is tied directly to hot weather, when the shrimp spawn and come closer to the warm surface to feed. Most locals agree that the flavor of this shrimp is sweeter and more delicate than the meatier, larger deep-water white shrimp that are harvested off the coast.

An experienced shrimper could tell you the difference between a cooked brown, pink, or white shrimp at a glance, but for most of us, they’re not that easy to distinguish once they’re cooked, since all shrimp turn pink when heat is applied.

The color difference, while subtle, is more apparent when raw. Pink shrimp are actually that color from the get-go, but white and brown shrimp are really different shades of gray: the gray of white shrimp is and fairly cool; that of brown shrimp is ruddier and warmer.

For the best flavor, buy shrimp that have never been frozen or sprayed with sulfites—that is, only from day-boaters, who bring their catch to the market every day. And in the case of brown shrimp, don’t always assume that bigger will be better: the smaller ones are actually the sweetest and most flavorful.

Don’t neglect the heads. If you can get shrimp with the heads on, don’t think twice; just trust me on this and buy them. The heads make a big difference in the flavor of the shrimp when cooked and can be recycled into shellfish stock that can be frozen and added to gumbos, soups, and creamed seafood dishes even in the off season.

Cooking them well could not be simpler. All you need is water, sea salt, and a good eye.

Basic Cooked or “Boiled” Shrimp

Boiled is misleading: the water should never actually be allowed to boil while the shrimp are in it.

Serves 4

3½-to-4 pounds head-on shrimp (or 2 pounds if headed)

Salt

1. Bring at least 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil in a stainless steel or enameled pot. Add the shrimp, cover, and count 90 seconds. Remove the cover and stir, when all the shrimp have just turned pink and opaque, immediately drain them. For large shrimp this will take about 2 minutes, smaller ones may need a little less. Overcooking, even slightly, toughens shrimp, so pay close attention.

2. Spread the shrimp on a platter, and if they need it (brown shrimp sometimes don’t), sprinkle them (still in shell) lightly with sea salt. Cover with a tea towel for 2-5 minutes, then uncover, and either let your guests do the work themselves or head and peel them before serving. If you head them properly, it will pull the sandy vein right out of the tail.

Sherried Shrimp

Here’s another favorite local shrimp recipe that is only slightly more complicated, from my last book, The Savannah Cookbook. Its perfection is owed to the culinary genius of Elizabeth Malone Smart, Connie Hartridge’s grandmother.

Serves 4

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed and peeled, but left whole

48 large shrimp (about 1½ pounds), peeled

Salt and ground cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

½ cup dry sherry

3 cups cooked rice

1. Heat the garlic and butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook until the garlic is golden, about 2 minutes, then remove and discard it. Add the shrimp and sauté, tossing frequently, until they are curled and pink, about 3 minutes. Season well with salt and cayenne, both to taste (our brown shrimp often don’t need added salt), and remove them with a slotted spoon to a warm platter.

2. Add the sherry and bring it to a boil, stirring and scraping the pan, and let it boil half a minute. Stir in the parsley and pour it over the shrimp. Serve at once, over rice or with plenty of crusty bread to sop up the sauce.